If you don’t know your rawon from your rendang, you’re not alone, many locals struggle to explain the difference between the earthy flavours of Padang food and the lighter, brighter dishes of the East.
Kaum in Bali sits loftily above the Potato Head Beach Club, with sweeping views across the ocean. The menu traverses the vast archipelago and has earned a reputation as one of the best Indonesian restaurants in Seminyak. A meal here is more than simply lunch or dinner, it’s a journey that educates us on the many regional cuisines and the spices that inspire them. And there are few better placed to guide us than the original Kaum Chef, Wayan Kresna Yasa.
Chef Wayan Kresna is a local celebrity; a charming, well-travelled Balinese Chef who began life as a fisherman in Nusa Penida before life took him to the Culinary Institute in the US. Kaum is his concept restaurant, which first opened in Hong Kong before being introduced to Potato Head in Bali and Jakarta. Three years after leaving Desa Potato Head, he’s back with new recipes and a feast of flavours to inspire us to try new things and enjoy modern interpretations of cherished dishes.
“ Many of our guests already know these dishes but they say, hey, this is not how we cook them at home. Of course not,” he laughs, “ these recipes are our interpretation – the ingredients are top quality, the flavours are expertly blended in our kitchen to produce restaurant-quality dishes inspired by our experience and our travels.”
From east to west, there are an estimated 600 ethnic groups in Indonesia. Each has adapted local ingredients and traditions to create their regional dishes. Some dishes like rujak and rendang or deceptively simple chicken curry ( kare) are found throughout Indonesia, but the style will change depending on regional influences.
Chef Wayan’s career has taken him around the world and he has published an incredible cookbook on Balinese food. After working in the US he returned to Bali to open Room4Dessert with Will Goldfarb before signing on at Potato Head and working his way up to Executive Chef.
His love of seafood and Balinese food is well documented and his recent travels have inspired him to refresh the menu at Kaum while working within the sustainable policies of Potato Head. If you are looking for delicious Indonesian food in Seminyak, look no further.
“ I’ve always had a good relationship with our local fishermen and suppliers. The majority of seafood we use is local, it’s all line-caught and fresh on the day. Being part of the Potato Head group is a great advantage as we can share ingredients, it gives us buying power and also makes us more creative as we strive for zero waste. Keeping things authentic is important but I will swap a cheap cut of beef for local wagyu to elevate a dish. The spices we use will be fresh and top quality, our chickens and vegetables are organic, in line with our philosophy at Potato Head,” continues Chef Wayan.
Once the Executive Chef of the Desa Potato Head, a beautiful beachside complex that includes the Beach Club, Potato Head Suites, the hotel and its many entertainment and food and beverage offerings, Chef Wayan feels like he’s coming home.
“I always kept an eye on Kaum, it is my baby and always in my heart. I recently sailed around the archipelago cooking on a phinisi and what I loved most was meeting local fishermen and producers. We bartered for our dinner as they weren’t interested in money, rather they wanted beer, noodles, or coffee…and we received incredible fresh seafood along with local cooking tips from them. It was incredibly inspiring,” he tells us.
Our lunch on a stunning day began with rujak – a popular Indonesian dish. I’d never tried this version but I encourage everyone to order it. Made with fresh pomelo and finely sliced vegetables with sublime palm nectar and tamarind syrup. It was light, bright and refreshingly delicious.
We sampled lodeh from Central Java – a stunning chargrilled eggplant dish with tempe and coconut sauce, and sate sapi maranggi made with tender beef tenderloin, threaded with baby leek and a coriander soy glaze.
Our mains included udang bakar kecombrang, a dish from West Java made with incredibly fresh local king prawns chargrilled and dressed with a torch ginger emulsion. Firm and perfectly charred, they were delicious. As well, we sampled bebek se’i from Sumatra – delicately smoked duck breast with charred green chilli relish. Each dish was beautifully plated and perfectly cooked.
We then travelled to Sumatra for a classic Padang dish; beef rendang, slow-cooked wagyu beef brisket with coconut milk and Sumatran spices.
It’s helpful that the menu features a map so you can chart your own course throughout the meal. The wait staff are a great source of knowledge so if you’d like to delve deeper into the regions, simply ask. The menu served in the stylish dining room also offers a choice of refreshments including local cocktail and mocktail mixes created in-house that perfectly complement the meal and introduce local flavours. Beer and wine are also on the menu.
Our lunch took us from East to West and back to Bali with Chef Wayan highlighting new and existing dishes for us to try. We finished our meal with locally sourced espresso and a steamed pandan cake in palm sugar syrup.
Kaum is no ordinary restaurant, as Desa Potato Head is more than simply a resort; preserving the culture and a sustainable approach inspire every menu and design decision. The philosophy behind Kaum is that to really understand Indonesian food you need to travel through the many islands and cultures that create it. Being able to do it all in an air-conditioned dining room with expansive sea views is a real treat and one we highly recommend.
